Vietnam – lessons in privilege
My second post about Vietnam is about my incredible trek up into the highlands above Sapa Valley. I went for a long trek and was gifted with incredible views and a lesson in privilege. Originally, I had planned to do an overnight trek into the valley that included a night at a home stay. But the beautiful thing about solo travel is you can change your mind and your plans if you like. I arrived at the Mega View Homestay in Sapa and saw the view from my balcony, the shower with unlimited hot water and the huge bed. I then decided I didn’t want to give that up for a night in the valley. So I switched my trek to one day.
Sapa Sisters Trekking
I was very excited as I had booked my trek with a local company. Sapa Sisters Trekking runs as a cooperative by a group of local women. The guides are all women (this is quite common in Vietnam). Plus the treks are customized for you by the guide. I found several recommendations for the Sapa Sister Trekking Company on different platforms and I understand why. They are helpful, professional but offer a personal touch. When I booked my trek, they also helped me book my bus from Hanoi and Sapa and then arranged my transfer from the airport to the bus station. I definitely recommend them if you want to do a trek in Sapa.
My guide was Su Li and I really, really hope to meet her again one day. Sometimes you meet someone who impacts you deeply, just because of their smile and their energy. Then after spending the day with her, I developed a deep and profound respect and admiration towards her.
Mountain Hike
Su Li gave me a choice between going down into the valley, the traditional route to see the rice fields, or going up into the mountains, through her village and then coming down through rice fields later in the day. I love a good mountain hike. And then add the chance to see her village and still walk through some rice fields – it was too appealing to pass up. And so my easy hike into the rice fields changed into a strenuous mountain trek. But what a day – worth every drop of sweat.
I will let the photos speak for themselves. It was truly beautiful in so many ways. The hike up was gorgeous plus we met some water buffalos, which was one of those ‘pinch me’ moments.
It was also interesting as parts of the trek included wandering through some tiny villages which were a wild mix of past and present, quaint and run-down. Then I got to meet her husband and see her house. She also runs her own homestay – very remote, quiet and with a great view. Overall, the trek was incredible. Beautiful, peaceful and challenging – a day I will not forget.
Since becoming a nomad, I have done some incredible hikes and treks. Acatenango in Guatemala, the Camino in Spain, the Inca Trail in Peru and now Northern Vietnam. Sometimes I am still surprised at the places I have been and the very physical treks that I have done. I really am so grateful for the experiences and to my body… the body that I have never treated well and have always hated. That is a whole other blog truthfully. But hiking in Northern Vietnam – that is another memory that will bring me joy for decades.
Su Li’s story
Back to Su Li and her story, and my deep respect for her. Su Li has been a guide for the past 5 years and often works 7 days a week during the high season. She has 5 children. The youngest 2 are still ‘at home’ although they live at their school during the week. The commute from their village to the school is too far to walk every day. It is quite common for children in the highlands to not start school until they are old enough to actually stay at the school. This was the case with Su Li’s children. Su Li and her husband work incredibly hard so their children have more opportunities than they did.
Before my visit to Vietnam I saw a beautiful video that addresses a topic that I have thought about many times but have been wary to write about for fear of… honestly I’m not sure. I guess I don’t want to sound preachy or judgmental nor I do want to write about someone in a way that exploits them. But the video talked about a traveler realizing that they were not that smart, they were just lucky because they received an education. They were lucky because they grew up somewhere where going to school was not a privilege but a right. Meeting Su Li reminded me of this. Education is such a privilege that so any of us take for granted.
Su Li grew up in a very small mountain village. Her father died when she was 9 and so she never had the chance to go to school. Both her and her older sister had to sell the crafts that their mother made at the local markets in Sapa and other villages. She spent the next 10 years working 6 days a week, helping to support her family. Su Li then married at 19 and started her own family. She never had the chance to get an education. She also shared that she never learned to read. However, after having the chance to become a guide, she learned to speak some English and a little French to converse with tourists. She kept apologizing for her ‘accent’ but I assured her that I was in fact inspired that she not only spoke Hmong and Vietnamese, but also some English and French.
When we visited her house and she showed me her own homestay, I was even more impressed. She shared that after guiding for a couple of years, she realized that tourists loved the appeal of the quiet and remote highlands. She convinced her husband that they should build some ‘cabins’ to offer as homestays – that it would be a good investment. Her side hustle and entrepreneurial spirit was impressive and I kept thinking of how much she had accomplished despite no formal education.
Lessons in privilege
Spending the day with Su Li and learning so much about the different Vietnamese ethnic groups as well as her personal story was just beautiful. Beautiful and overwhelming and mostly inspiring. I think a lot of North Americans (myself included) take a lot of pride in their work ethic or ‘hustle’ without acknowledging how blessed we are to have an education and resources behind the work ethic and hustle. I’m not saying that we should not be proud of our accomplishments but I think sometimes we take for granted the ease with which we can accomplish things.
The whole of that gorgeous day, and many days since, I kept thinking, ‘Wow, how lucky am I that I got to go to school. What a wild and underappreciated privilege it is to get to learn all day.” So that was the second big lesson that Vietnam gifted me with – education is a privilege and I will respect and cherish it always. Truly, if you can read and experience other worlds through the written word – what a divine and precious gift that is!
I will never forget Su Li – her grit, intelligence and entrepreneurial spirit will stay with me always. And her laugh – she had such a joyful laugh!
I have included links to Sapa Sisters and Mega View below. If you are thinking of visiting, I highly recommend both. I have also included Su Li’s WhatsApp. Please reach out if you are considering a visit to Vietnam – I am happy to answer any questions. It really is a country worth visiting. Thank you for reading and please feel free to share.
Su Li’s homestay +84 32 728 6475
Pamela – brings me joy to read your adventures, experiences and mostly that you appreciate the wonderful people from each place. The people and Mother Nature truly bring us the learning, the wisdom.
Wow you hv a way of drawing in reader to be able to see what your writing! Great pics and this is a trip I may take!