Life in Hong Kong so far
Today marks 25 days in Hong Kong and I guess I live here now. Life in Hong Kong has been a roller coaster but I am loving it. I’m here teaching at a learning academy for a year. The 8 training days were brutal, to be honest. Long lectures in the mornings and longer hours in the afternoon teaching while being assessed. Plus a very long commute mid-day and a lot of ‘administrative tasks’ related to working in a new country.
Add on teaching practices and expectations that are not especially comfortable for me and the first 2 weeks were a lot. I also moved apartments. And then 2 days later started my actual job, which was sadly not where my training took place. So more protocol to learn, different expectations and new teachers. I also experienced my first ‘typhoon warning’ experience last week. A whole lot of new 😉
But I am loving it. Hong Kong is a wild and crazy mix of old and new, skyscrapers and temples, shiny and run-down. It is also the personification of the term ‘urban jungle.’ It is a jungle in terms of the unrelenting humidity and the non-stop steam bath that is September. But Hong Kong also has many green places and hiking trails. You can walk 30 minutes and traverse from crowded, noisy urban streets to a peaceful little nature hike. I am excited to do a lot of hiking while living in the 4th most densely populated city in the world. Hong Kong really is a paradox.
Speaking of paradoxes, I am especially loving the unexpected challenges and even disappointments. I am loving them because I have noticed that all of my travel experiences have helped me become someone who is able to handle challenges and disappointments with curiosity. For example, my first apartment was dingy, smelly, dark and crowded (with just a touch of mold). It was cheap though and part of the teacher housing provided. Part of me really wanted to stick it out to have the roommate experience. Also, since starting my nomad life, I have tried to push myself outside my comfort zone.
However, I also wanted to enjoy my Hong Kong experience (and be healthy). I had to get curious and figure out what was most important to me. So I have moved into a really tiny studio (honestly it’s more of a large room than a studio). I will have to do a bit of overtime teaching to make up for the extra cost but I am happier. And moving to a city where you don’t speak the language or know a single person – well that is outside of ANY comfort zone. I decided I needed a ‘home’ that is a sanctuary, even if it is a teeny tiny sanctuary 🙂 And I am proud of myself because although I didn’t like it, I didn’t get upset. I just took some steps to make a change.
Now that I ‘live’ somewhere, I wondered if I can still call myself a nomad. I decided that I can because…well, because I’m an adult and I can call myself whatever I want. So I live in Hong Kong but I am still a nomad 😉 It was interesting to me because what made me catch my breath and go “holy guacamole, I live here now!” was signing up for a gym membership. I had a job, got a work visa and found an apartment. I even opened a Hong Kong bank account. Then last Tuesday, I got a gym membership and that felt like such a serious commitment lol.
One of the things that I am really excited about with this experience is finding a balance between being a traveler and having a bit of a routine. I am looking forward to exploring all that Hong Kong has to offer. Trying new foods, going to old temples, visiting museums and meeting local people are all exciting to me. AND I am excited about going to the same gym, finding my favorite market and connecting with a place on a deeper level.
The first 3 weeks involved a lot of trains, buses, classrooms and waiting in lines. I did manage to be a tourist a few times. I can and do highly recommend just walking the promenade from Tin Hau district all the way to the Sun Yat Sen Memorial Park.
I also went to my first temple, the Man Mo Temple, which was fascinating. The thing I liked the best was all of the locals who still go every day to worship. The most fascinating thing was the part of the temple that did not allow photographs. Several rooms with tiny little drawers in the wall. Each drawer had a photo of a loved one that had passed (and ashes inside the drawers). All past souls ‘gathered’ together in temple. And there were several visitors there, with their lunches and tiny foldable stools. The locals come to share a meal with their deceased family member. They bring their lunch and then leave offerings – like an orange or a favorite candy bar or peanuts. It was really beautiful and touching.
If you go to a temple, please be aware that the incense is unbelievably thick and heavy. Makes for both an otherworldly experience but also for me, serious olfactory overload.
I also visited Cat Street in Sheung Wan district. It is a great combination of really beautiful jewelry and antique shops mixed with interesting flea market type shops. Everything from incredibly old and beautiful, to wildly useless and very cheap, to ‘who the heck would buy that?!’
Temple Street Night Market, in Yau Ma Tei district was a similar experience. Several streets of stalls from beautiful original paintings to laptop chargers to “I ‘heart’ HK” t-shirts to knock off ‘Channel’ purses. The best part, in my opinion, were the little restaurants on the side streets that are obviously favorite local spots. One day I will work up the courage to try one of the local places. There is also one street devoted to food carts. I did try some delightful street cart food in honor of my daughters – they love unknown street food. It was fried cuttle fish, mixed with some type of unknown spongy fried thing – maybe tofu – and of course French fries. It was delicious but almost too spicy.
Oh and I live right next to Hong Kong’s Times Square! Which is both cool and delightful and also annoying and crowded.
Right now I have plans to be a tourist once a week. To do something that will (hopefully) take my breath away. I also want to give myself time to wander neighborhoods aimlessly. For me, there is nothing better than getting lost in a new city and feeling anonymous. But I also love connecting with strangers and making new friends. And of course long hours of teaching (which I am loving.) Hopefully my life in Hong Kong will be a chaotic mix of wonder and the mundane 🙂 I will keep you posted.
I would love to hear, from anyone who has been to Hong Kong, any suggestions. What should I NOT miss?? OR please tell me what you are curious about regarding Hong Kong and I will try to find out and report back 😉
I LOVE this update! I really feel what it’s been like for you, and I’m so happy you found your little sanctuary. I can’t wait to hear the next update of your adventure
Awe, thank you!! I think you would love it here 😉 I can’t wait to experience more.
Thank you for trying street food!!! For your next quest, a local restaurant please 🙂
I am a terrible blogger as I just saw this now 🙁 but I have 2 places I am working up the nerve to try. I will update immediately when my nerve is fully grown 😉
Great Blog Pam!
Thanks for sharing!
Thank you Jen! Something about HK makes me feel very alive… so much of everything.