Glasgow – honest & charming

I spent one day in Glasgow earlier this year. I had taken a pet sit on the west coast of Scotland, with high expectations of wandering the coastal town of Inverkip. Sadly, it rained heavily all week and I was injured so there were no coastal walks. I did give myself one day after the sit to explore Glasgow before heading back to Canada. To be honest, I knew very little about Glasgow except that it was designated as a UNESCO City of Music. I had no expectations and limited mobility but I had a fantastic day. It’s a wonderful city, with the best Cathedral I have ever visited, an incredible museum and friendly, honest people. 

Glasgow Cathedral

The Glasgow Cathedral is a beautiful medieval castle that survived the Reformation almost entirely intact. The Lower Church, a stunning 13th century crypt created for the tomb of St. Mungo was fascinating and used to attract pilgrims from across medieval Scotland. It also has an incredible stained glass collection and is still a working church. 

However, what struck me the most about Glasgow Cathedral was how inclusive and welcoming it felt. There were stickers in all the pews that read “All are welcome in this place” and it truly felt like it. At least a dozen volunteers offered free tours. They presented the history of the Cathedral with charming honesty. Nothing was presented as absolutely certain – the volunteers offered a lot of ‘we believe’ and ‘evidence suggests.’

There was a charming family close by with a guide – I confess I eavesdropped. The volunteer guide was wonderful. The 2 lively boys asked non-stop questions and she gave such thoughtful but fun responses. Overall, the Glasgow Cathedral felt not only historical and spiritual, but also warm and inclusive. You must visit the Cathedral if you are ever in Glasgow. 

I also visited the Glasgow Necropolis right next to the Cathedral which was really beautiful and interesting. The Bridge of Sighs was especially picturesque.

Then I wandered down High Street and found a delightful pub for lunch. And after lunch, I took advantage of Scotland’s fantastic public transport system – so easy to use and affordable. I went across the city to the West End and the famous Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum. Several people recommended the Kelvingrove and it did not disappoint. 

Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Museum

First, as with all museums and most art galleries in Scotland, it was free. And it was absolutely wonderful to see so many families and young people having access to and enjoying the museum and all of the art. The building itself is a beautiful piece of architecture in the middle of Kelvingrove Park.

There are 22 galleries and you can explore everything from Ancient Egypt to Scotland’s Wildlife exhibit. Children can enjoy the Creatures of the Past exhibit and art lovers can linger over art from The Glasgow Boys exhibit to one of Dali’s most famous masterpieces. It is both a family friendly museum and a beautifully curated art gallery. 

One of the things I really loved about this museum and art gallery, and the reason I think of Glasgow as being refreshingly honest, were the plaques that accompanied so many of the exhibits. While there were many paintings of Glasgow’s “tobacco lords,” there were always disclaimers that told the full history.

The Tobacco Lords were prominent & wealthy 18th century merchants who were largely responsible for laying the foundation of modern day Glasgow, building many of the city’s most stunning buildings and churches. However, they built their immense wealth on the transatlantic slave trade, manipulated global markets and reaped the benefits of the American plantation system. They are a large part of Glasgow’s history and there are many notable paintings of several tobacco lords but they are presented with total honesty. Glasgow does not sugar coat its dark history. 

The art gallery portion of the museum had an eclectic collection. I could have easily spent an entire day there. I love a well curated museum that guides you through time and offers a diverse experience. My favorite was an incredible painting of Anna Pavlova although I was completely mesmerized by Salvador Dali’s Christ of St. John of the Cross. Some works of art live up to their hype. 

I love when I am so captivated by a museum or art gallery that I am forced to leave because it is closing. This is what happened at the Kelvingrove. Thankfully there was still enough daylight to wander the Kelvingrove Park and then explore Argyle Street and Finnieston. If you love a vibrant food district, Finnieston is the place to go in Glasgow. 

Like all of Scotland, I found Glasgow so much more interesting and charming than I expected. Glasgow seems more modern than Edinburgh but still full of history, castles and medieval architecture. It also has a bit of a ‘rock and roll’ vibe to it. I say that having not experienced any of the clubs there, but I think if I had more time (and 2 working feet), it would have been fun to check out some of the pubs and music halls. 

My day in Glasgow was one of my favorite tourist days I’ve had this year, despite hobbling around the city all day on an injured foot. I would love to go back and visit The Burrell Collection, the Riverside Museum and the Botanic Gardens. And an evening at the Barrowland Ballroom would be a wonderful experience, I am sure. I highly recommend a visit to Glasgow, if you are going to Scotland. It is well worth the easy & affordable train ride from Edinburgh. 

Another recommendation I would make is that if you think you have a sprained ankle that is taking forever to heal, perhaps get an x-ray sooner rather than later. I will remember my time in Inverkip and Glasgow for many reasons. One of them is that I spent 2 weeks walking on what turned out to be a broken 5th metatarsal. That is something that I do NOT recommend. 

If you’ve been to Scotland, did you prefer Edinburgh or Glasgow? I’d love to know! And if you haven’t been to Scotland, have I convinced you to visit? I hope so.