Isle of Skye – magical, gloomy & delightful
Sometimes I am a little afraid to visit some places – places that I’ve read about or seen in a movie. Places that all the travel guides and influencers say is a ‘must see.’ Places I have dreamed about, their name conjuring images in my mind – places like The Isle of Skye. I’m afraid that my expectations are too high and my opinions are fully formed.
I have learned the last few years that most places do not look exactly as they do on IG or in National Geographic – they are often less bright, less vivid and more ‘smudged.’ They are real places. The filters on social media can make every place look like a surrealistic painting. It raises expectations and often makes so many places look the same.
And at the same time, regardless of how perfectly filtered and cropped a photo is, pictures never fully capture the feeling of standing in a spot, looking out a view that has captured hearts for centuries. Pictures cannot make you feel the wonder and gratitude that you get when you look at that magical view with your very own eyes. You must see someplace for yourself for your heart to be fully captured.
This is all to say that I went to the Isle of Skye which has been on my ‘dream list’ for a long time. I am happy to report that I was completely delighted and full of wonder and gratitude.
Road tripping
I was in Scotland for 2 pet sits – one in Dunfermline and another in Innerleithen. In between pet sits, I had planned a road trip to Portree on the Isle of Skye. To be honest, one of the reasons that I took the first pet sit was to be kind of close to Skye.
On a side note, driving on the left side of the road, navigating the narrow roads of Northern Scotland, cursing all of the roundabouts all by myself… Well it was one of the scariest but most fun adventures I have ever had. If you haven’t done a road trip by yourself in a different country, getting lost, giving yourself encouraging little pep talks and then singing at the top of your lungs once you get the hang of it all, you are truly missing out. I highly recommend it. It can be a roller coaster of emotions but at the end you feel joyfully triumphant.
I enjoyed the road trip so much, stopping at many places along the way, that I arrived on Skye after dark. Driving the last 50 kms in pouring rain, on skinny island roads, unsure where the road ended and the ditch began was quite the adrenaline rush, to be honest. But I made it to Portree and found my cozy little AirBnb. Success!
Portree
Success felt short lived though. I learned that visiting a small village during the shoulder season means no grocery stores are open after 6pm and only 2 restaurants and 1 bar. Thankfully, one of the restaurants was a Chinese take-out place as I was much too tired for a fancy dinner or a bar. Later as I was sitting in my little room, eating Chinese food in a Scottish village completely alone, I laughed at how weird my life is sometimes. I like to collect little memories like that – weird moments when I am all alone somewhere I never imagined, doing something weird like eating bad Chinese take-out after a solo road trip through Northern Scotland.
Old Man of Storr
I had 3 full days in Portree and the first one was dedicated to hiking the Old Man of Storr. The Old Man of Storr is one of the Isle of Skye’s most famous sites. It was formed from an ancient landslide. Standing at 55 meters high, the ‘old man’ component of the name derives from the fact that when seen from the front, it looks like the face of a haggard and craggy old man. It is a very popular site for those exploring Skye, offering views out over the Sound of Raasay and to the mainland.
I was excited to do the hike and see the epic spires and otherworldly peaks. Unfortunately, I woke to cloudy skies and a gusty wind but I decided to do the hike anyway. Part of being a nomad is working as you explore and I had a full schedule of classes the following day so I decided to brave the cold and hope for the best.
It is around 4 km out and back, with an elevation gain of 350 meters but with the wind blowing and the rain pelting the entire ascent, it felt much longer. It was brutally cold and I was grateful for my layers. By the time I reached the Storr, I couldn’t see more than 5 meters in front of me. I definitely could not see the epic views of the Sound of Raasay. But I carried on. About 500 meters past the Storr, up a narrow rocky incline, is a small flat overlook that I had read about. I was already wet and cold so I decided I might as well go all the way.
A young couple from Ireland was also going to the overlook and very sweetly, they kept looking back to see if I was all right. When we finally reached the top and the wind was blustering and there was absolutely no epic view, only thick grey clouds, we shared a laugh. I lingered at the top so I could have my granola bar. (It’s almost the only time I eat granola bars but a granola bar at the top of a hike tastes so good that it’s become a bit of a ritual for me now.) I finished my granola bar, a little lost in thought really, and then turned to begin the descent.
Lucky, lucky me!! The clouds were opening up and the view was beautiful. As I slowly descended the wind calmed down, the clouds drifted away and I could fully appreciate the incredible views. It was extra magical because it had been such a challenge to make it to the top through the wind and rain. It was a magical morning – the kind that makes you smile in delight years later.
After the descent I continued driving around the northern part of the island. I wound my way back to Portree, stopping along the way whenever I saw something beautiful. I know some people think it must be lonely – a solo road trip. And of course, there are times when it would be nice to have a navigator or someone to share the beauty with. But to be honest, the sheer indescribable delight of stopping every time I see a field of sheep or a cool tree or an old gravestone – well as I said it is hard to describe. I absolutely REVEL in stopping every time my whimsy whims and that totally overshadows not having a navigator. (For me anyways.)
Fairy Glen
On my third day on the island, I visited the Fairy Glen which was mystical and magical. This sounds pretty woo-woo but there are some places I feel like you can hear the land whispering. This was one of them. I was happy to visit during shoulder season so that I was the only one there that cold, misty morning – so I could hear the whispers.
I also visited Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls. Then I stumbled upon some magnificent sheep and abandoned cottages. I tried to visit Dunvegan Castle but it was closed. Traveling during shoulder season has its pros – lower prices, less crowds, appreciative locals. It also its cons – unpredictable weather, closed castles and fewer food options.
I only had 3 days in Skye. Day 2 involved 10 hours of teaching, so I definitely didn’t see everything Skye has to offer. I missed the Fairy Pools, Duntulm Castle Ruins, Neist Point Lighthouse and the famous Talisker Distillery. But I loved everything I did see. When it’s raining and the wind is howling, Skye can be the most gloomy place but in a wonderful over the top way. And when the clouds clear, it is so vibrant and beautiful. I followed my heart to the Isle of Skye and I am grateful that I did.
A couple last notes I’d like to share. Driving on Skye requires a lot of trust and patience. Many of the roads are single lane – not like a single lane each way but only 1 actual lane. So often you must back up into these little passing places – they call them laybys. At first, it was terrifying but I quickly became used to it. It made me feel a special connection to other drivers – this back and forth dance we had to do.
The people in Portree are wonderful – very friendly and helpful. I had the best fish and chips of my life at The Isles Inn. (Link below) Amazing fish and epic Scottish pub vibes. And last, if you should visit Portree and are on a budget, I highly recommend this charming Airbnb I stayed at. Shona, the owner, was absolutely lovely and it always feels good to support a local family. The link to her place is below.
